Four Textile Manufacturers have been charged with falsely labelling rayon clothing as bamboo. While the FTC sends a clear message with these charges, consumers and businesses alike need to understand the hard facts behind bamboo based textiles. By Coral Rose

The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) has charged four sellers of clothing and other textile products with "Bamboozling' consumers by deceptively labeling and advertising their products as made of bamboo fiber. These products are actually made of rayon. The companies were also charged with making false and unsubstantiated "green" claims, claiming that their products retain the natural antimicrobial properties of the bamboo plant.

Signaling clearly to the textile industry and consumers that they (FTC) will not allow the sustainable textile industry to become 'the wild west.' And that unsubstantiated green claims in the clothing and other textile related product categories will not be tolerated.

Three of the four companies - Sami Designs, LLC, doing business as (d/b/a) Jonäno; CSE, Inc., d/b/a Mad Mod; and Pure Bamboo, LLC - have settled the FTC's complaints, agreeing to stop making the false claims and to abide by the Commission's Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (Textile Act) and Rules. Litigation continues against the fourth company The M Group, Inc., d/b/a Bamboosa, and its principals.

Well over a year ago, sustainable textile industry academics and professionals raised red-flags on the improper labeling of 'rayon from bamboo' and other erroneous information that was being propagated by manufactures to US brands, retailers and consumers. These professionals spoke up for the integrity of the industry and the FTC listened and took swift action.

Here are the hard facts on Bamboo-based Textiles- They are made of Rayon, they are not antimicrobial, they are not produced in an environmentally friendly manner, nor are they biodegradable.

Why is this such groundbreaking news? Today, many people and organizations may be surprised (or not) to this revelation- Bamboo is not a fiber. Bamboo is not even legally recognized as a fiber by the FTC. According to the FTC textile products including garments must be labeled as "Rayon" or "Rayon from Bamboo."

But yet dozens if not hundreds of producers, manufactures and retailers have been mislabeling product for at least three years, ignoring the FTC regulations. Why? To jump on a hot category; the Green/Sustainable Textile band wagon and reap the short term economic benefit. That in and of itself is not aligned with any company that would aspire to be or sell sustainably produced products. Evidently they jumped in without digging into the supply chain and asking such basic questions as where does my fiber come from and how is it processed?

Supply chain transparency is at the heart of, and one of the basic pillars of any sustainability program/ product. There are potential risks to companies associated with using bamboo as a source for rayon since there is a lack of transparency in the supply chain. Bamboo fails the transparency test from the onset. It is not always clear which type of bamboo is used for fiber, where it is grown, how it is cultivated, harvested-there is no transparency in this the beginning of the journey of bamboo.

As one of the fastest growing plants in the world, bamboo grows to its maximum height in about 3 months and reaches maturity in 3-4 years. It spreads rapidly across large areas. Because of relatively quick growing time and the ability to be grown without fertilizers or pesticides, the fiber is being marketed as an 'eco-green-sustainable fiber.' As noted these claims are false-bamboo is not even recognized as a fiber. There's also no evidence that rayon made from bamboo retains the antimicrobial properties of the bamboo plant, as some sellers and manufacturers claim. Even when bamboo is the "plant source" used to create rayon, no traits of the original plant are left in the finished product

The process to make viscose or rayon fiber from bamboo is the same process used to produce viscose/ rayon from any other plant source. The cellulose is extracted from the bamboo, and then the cellulose is mixed with toxic chemicals to convert the plant pulp into textile quality fiber. All in a process that emits hazardous pollutants into the air.

In this FTC Business Alert, How to Avoid Bamboozling Your Customers, the intention is clear. The FTC is holding manufactures and sellers accountable for their actions. All textile labeling and marketing claims must be truthful. All claims must be "substantiated by reliable and competent scientific evidence."

Have You Been Bamboozled by Bamboo Fabrics?, is an alert released by the FTC, letting consumers know that the soft "bamboo" fabrics on the market today are NOT Green, Eco-Friendly or even Environmentally Friendly they are really rayon, made using harsh chemicals in a process that releases pollutants into the air.

This is the first step in cracking down on those producers, manufactures and retailers that mislead the consumer buying public with false green textile claims. The fact is that this is just the tip of the bamboo shoot. This action by the FTC today is to be acknowledged and applauded. Let's hope that this is a sign that the sustainable textile industry is going to stand up and not going be so easily 'greenwashed'

The FTC first contacted me in April 2008, regarding my February 2008 posting to my blog "Have you Bamboozled by Bamboo" (Yes, the FTC is website savvy!!!) Read that post here.

Resources:

Coral Rose Sustainable Action Leadership Blog

FTC Press Release dated 8/11/09

Coral Rose has more than two decades of experience in the apparel and retail industry as a merchandise buyer and in product development. Coral is founder of Eco-Innovations, a consulting firm focused on supporting businesses with the integration of "sustainable value" into their core strategies, product design, and development. Read her blog here.